In Conversation with... Antoni of Antoni+Alison
Photography (NOT) to Wear - pt. II at Elliott Gallery
Elliott Gallery opened its doors in 2003 with an exhibition by the internationally renowned Antoni + Alison. Collaborating since 1987, Antoni + Alison’s daring sense of creativity and inclination to extend the boundaries of both Fashion and Photography has resulted in a striking, often entertaining, body of work. 20 years on, Elliott Gallery is honoured to present Photography NOT to Wear - Part II, a solo exhibition by Antoni of Antoni + Alison.
Antoni Burakowski and Alison Roberts met at St Martin’s school of art in 1982, where Antoni studied Fashion/Textiles and Alison studied Fine Art Painting. Together, they founded their namesake label in 1987, and ever since have maintained a conceptual approach to their work and a firm belief that “just because fashion is the way it is, doesn’t mean to say it has to be the way it is.”
For the first time, the original Antoni + Alison dresses have been displayed in conjunction with the photographs. The effect is striking, and provides a unique opportunity to understand Antoni’s work as a whole. A gallery wall where the frame sits alongside a hanger, this novel curatorial approach adds depth and complexity to the exhibition, where the dresses are not simply for show. With a diverse range up for sale, collectors have the opportunity to quite literally wear the art. In such cases, Antoni makes himself available and offers one on one, in person consultations, to achieve the perfect, individualised fit.
We sat down with Antoni ahead of the opening to both reflect on the past and celebrate what is still to come. Sitting across from Antoni, it is clear that presenting a body of work as a solo artist for the first time brings about a range of emotions in him. Following such an enduring and celebrated career as a duo, this is a momentous occasion for him. His attitude towards the future, however, is similar to that of Antoni + Alison’s creative process, one filled with excitement and experimentation. Ultimately, a cause for celebration.
1. For the first time in more than 30 years, you are presenting a body of work as a solo artist, without your artistic partner, Alison. How do you feel about that?
“Sad. I do feel sad that Alison is not here, but I also feel that this is correct. It’s an experiment that we both have to do. Like the rest of our work, this is a series of experiments. That is what has kept us interested in our work.”
2. Elliott Gallery started its journey in Amsterdam back in 2003, with an exhibition by Antoni + Alison. 20 years later, we couldn’t celebrate our Anniversary in any better way. What do you, as an artist, have to celebrate 20 years on?
“The demise of Alison and myself...” Antoni responds jokingly before answering sincerely. “Independence, being independent, for the moment, is a celebration. As we said, it’s an experiment. It’s very hard to not say we and to say I.”
3. Antoni + Alison’s design method is a meticulous, creative and resourceful process. Which part would you say is your favourite and the most fun for you?
Antoni explains that they’ve been working with their unique process for many years, and that the most fun part is when suddenly they see something new emerge. “It’s like revisiting something every year and suddenly you’re like oh wow! The whole process is fun, it’s like jogging but for your head.” He goes on to point out that he doesn’t mind the so called ‘boring’ parts either, as they’re quite cathartic.
4. Your work is a blend of textiles, photography, collage, painting and more. Did this happen gradually and organically or was it the intention from day one? What do you enjoy most about combining these different forms of art?
Antoni reveals that there was never any plan or intention for the duo’s work, instead, they simply wanted to make “good and interesting work, interesting to us.” On what he enjoys most, he says “there is not one thing I don’t like. I do what I like, and always have.”
5. For the first time, we will exhibit your dresses together with your photographs, as fine art pieces! Does that make you feel more stressed or excited to present the whole range of your artistic creation?
“It’s a nightmare!” comes his retort. We ask him what he means by that. Antoni explains to us that although it’s odd, it’s nice, and admits that it helps him to think about it as if it were an exhibition that nobody is supposed to visit. Touchingly, he adds “it’s not a horrible feeling, but I usually share my feelings.”
6. Antoni + Alison have enjoyed a long career in fashion with countless achievements and highlights. What would you say you are most proud of?
“I think we are really proud that we didn’t compromise, but actually made the work that we wanted to. We made the work for us. It’s just a bonus that other people like it.” We reach the end with our sit down with Antoni and are curious to know one last thing - where he draws his inspiration from. He answers succinctly.
“Everywhere.”
Interview by Eirini Alexandrou / Edited by Lucy Grenfell
SWEET A (blue), 2023 by Antoni of Antoni+Alison [EG Collector’s Print)
SWEET A (green), 2023 by Antoni of Antoni+Alison [EG Collector’s Print)
